Louise Gray's collections are reliable. Reliable in the sense that they are predictably eccentric and perfectly encapsulate the essence of London Fashion Week- an eclectic hodgepodge of design chaperoned by a profound sense of natural style. Sponsored by COTTON USA, Louise Gray AW12 took inspiration from Blondie Jim Dine and Sarah Lucas.

Gray demonstrated restraint by only showing 23 looks. However, these 23 looks packed a punch. Each outfit was a clash of concepts, colours and silhouettes.  As with each piece itself, the outfits had depth and gave more with every glance. Shirts and tea-dresses or sequined leggings with tunics were worn with patent boots. Decorated with zigzags and barcode, the knee high boots had something of the Go-Go dancer verve. The collection's reference points veered from the 80s - very strong in The Blitz style hairdos and New Romantic make-up to Fernand Leger. The clothing was club-ready and in Nu-Rave worthy colours.

Gray's Autumn Winter collection showed maturity - it was more commercial and far more wearable than previous seasons. Gone are the chaotic ribbons and plastic threads, replaced, now, with sellable outerwear and separates. Skirts, leggings and trousers were paired with tunic tops, knitwear and shirts. However, as ever, Gray has an innate understanding of the richness and depth provided by layering. The commerciality of this collection didn't detract from the perfect combination of clashing prints and high-octane colours. Beaded bra tops and graphic graffiti and QR code prints were neon bright. Gray has taken a sure-footed step with inventive design remaining her cynosure but it's a collection that will sell.  

Words by Lucy Morris

Photos: Style.com

Tramp in Disguise was launched by designer Sini Moilanen in 2010. But Moilanen didn’t always want to be in fashion. “I thought before that I wanted to be a doctor,” she said at the Felicities Presents event held in Somerset House. Saving lives had nothing to do with the collection Moilanen showed for Autumn/Winter since her garments are inspired by the dead. “For this collection it’s been about Mexico,” she said, “It started with the Day of the Dead. It started with Aztec prints.”

The Day of the Dead has been a flamboyant festival for the departed since the Aztec times. Filtered through the imaginings of a Finnish-born Royal College of Art graduate, a degree of theatricality still surrounded this sacred Mexican holiday. Sini Moilanen’s dynamic silhouettes cut a tall and sleek figure, aggrandized by goddess-like draping and high slits. Bright blocks of colour broke prints becomingly around the waist. The rest of the garments, decorated with lace-like patterns, nodded to the elaborate but morbid designs of Mexican festival costume. Textures were light and half-there, they had about them an ethereal sheen associated with the supernatural, the dead and the divine.

Written by Marina Kolobova

Photography by Atsushi Meguro

Images provided by Sini Moilanen

Hair and make-up by Rhea Le Riche

Model: Natalie Leni's Modes

What were your inspirations for the AW collection?

The kind of girl who has a boyfriend who is an architect who understands detail- the details that are very sleek and smart. And Jackie Onassis. True glamour in a subtle way.

How did you decide on the silhouette and textiles?

I like using silk and organza for luxury.

What type of woman would you envisage wearing Bernard Chandran?

Women that are settled, like Tilda Swinton and Cate Blanchett.

How are you finding LFW?

It’s always very exciting and crazy!

Any LFW survival tips?

Just do what you do, dream that dream and everything will come naturally.

What would you say makes LFW different to all the other fashion weeks around the world?

It pushes the boundaries, it’s quirkier and there are so many trendsetters here. It’s very current and updated.

If you could sum up Bernard Chandran in 3 words, what would they be?

 The coolest, sexiest and hippest.

Who is your IDOL?

Cate Blanchett.

Read our runway report on Bernard Chandran AW12 here

Interviewed by Avneet Takhar