Holly Fulton

There is something about Holly Fulton's collections that is hard to describe. She does not go for any sort of minimalism in her designs, mixing inspirations, fabrics, colours – confusing a mere mortal into a whimsical fashion frenzy. This year Fulton's collection SS/12 was presented at London Fashion Week and proving that Fulton's a walking whirlpool of inspirations, the collection was a little bit Art Deco, 60's, tribal, and a little bit 80's. Some garments were loud and bold, with others subtle, almost fragile looking. Watching the show  was a bit like watching fireworks –  with each model emerging, "ooh's" and ah's" filled the hall.

It's easy to imagine a long-legged heroine, lazily fighting with the case of severe ennui in a beautiful villa, somewhere in Marrakesh head to toe clad in Fulton's designs- a zebra print jumpsuit, with peach and gold Art Deco and shell detail perhaps. Or maybe another walking dreamingly on the streets of St Tropez absent-mindedly eating pistachio ice cream, which just happens to match her sleeve-less nude dress with sea-life details perfectly. There is that air of decadence in Fulton's designs – but it's not pretentious, it's quite charming and dreamy.

If Versace, Yves Saint Laurent and Moschino had a love child it would no doubt be Holly Fulton. Her collections are luxurious but fun, elegant but easy to wear. We are very excited to see what's next in store for this promising Scottish designer, and with little birdies telling us it's knitwear, we can't help but be very excited. 

Written by Monika Zgoda

Ones to watch...

Phoebe English

Perhaps the strongest and most engaging of the One's to watch show at Vauxhall Fashion scout, Pheobe English's collection was all texture and experiment. Her use of pleats, tassels, tule  and knitwear was dramatic and beautiful. Contrasting the look of the unfinished with superb shapes and expertly executed pieces, the focus on texture and ruffling was backed up with craftsmanship. The cream and black colour palette, with leather inserts and playful lengths and shapes made for something interesting and new.

Alice Lee

With a sexier approach to knitwear than we've seen on other catwalks, Alice Lee's collection was focussed very much on the contour, using serious embellishment in jumper dresses, headpieces and skirts. The blacks, greys, whites and splashes of red added to this seductive approach to knit.

Shao Yen

Shao Yen's wiry mixing of textures, from silks, crochet, leathers and knit to his haphazard hemlines and high slits revealed a collection that packed a weighty punch, out to shock as well as question. I heard an audible gasp from a grandma in the audience (I assume not his own) at the slashed lengths and obvious S&M references juxtaposed with his use of fabrics, but the collection did come to an undeniable softer place by its end. His focus on the silhouette was at times quite lovely. Negative space and use of texture at the forefront.

Malene Oddershede Bach

Channelling the themes we've seen across New York of citrus and fluorescents executed in a way that incorporates both structure and drapery, Malene Oddershede Bach showed a focussed and understated collection. Playing with texture in the most wearable way from the One's to watch show, her use of wool and silks, leather and metallics was in a distinctly feminine way. Her kick skirts and print blocking was all sexy but palatable, with great tailoring and a look of the 'effortless chic' about it.

Leutton Postle

Recent central Saint Martins graduates and Vauxhall fashion scout merit award winners Leutton Postle were certainly creating a positive whisper around fashion week. Oft the sceptic I ignored, but hearsay was proven to be correct, with an innovative, interesting and engaging collection. The innovative and intricate use of knitwear was superbly suited to their dirty pastel colour palette, with echoes of crayons in their anti-pattern use of colour. Ribonny tassels giving movement to the medium, which was playful as well as slightly dark, Channelling childlike knitted blankets without an ounce of twee. A highlight of their collection for me was their trousers, playing with length and sheer, and most successfully, adding metallic into highly worked patchwork gorgeousness. Panels of sheer and loosely hanging dresses brought variation to the collection, which was finished off with smeared crayola lips and textured platforms. Leutton Postle are set for big and beautiful things.  

Written by Alice Nyong