YOU graduated this year from London College of Fashion with a very well-received graduate collection. What comes next? Where do you want to go from here? 

Originally I was planning to apply for the MA course at the Royal College of Art, but when I finished my BA, great things started coming my way.  So I have taken a slightly different route to what I was planning initially. Which, actually, is amazing and I would like to explore these opportunities for now and in the future I intend to apply to the Merit Awards at Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

What inspires and influences your creative direction? 

The human body itself. Science, history and the future are always entwined in my research. I love to juxtapose things and find a medium to express the result. For example, organic forms and geometric shapes, black and white, past and the future.

A lot of the cut leather in your collection seems almost to mimic the structure of the human skeleton. Can you tell us about the relationship between the anatomical form and the finished piece in your work? 

My research originates from the book De Humani Corporis Fabrica (On the Fabric of the Human Body) written by Andreas Vesalius in 1543. This was one of the first medical books depicting human anatomy. It’s very detailed, with illustrations of how the body’s construction was first explored in the 16^th Century.

It provides striking imagery of stripping the human body layer by layer in order to study and explore its construction. The idea that once the last layer is stripped, it would then be possible to reveal the human soul intrigued me. I was extracting details of the human body and tried to understand its construction and apply it to the construction of garments. It’s a bit like a vision of what’s hidden under your skin – “if you dig deep enough, will you be able to find the soul, eventually?” 

What made you as a fashion graduate, want to start out on your own, rather than working first with other designers?

It is an important part for the path of any young designer to have had work experience with an established designer. It’s a learning process as a creative professional in this industry. Unfortunately I never had a chance to do that due to my commitments. But I guess what I am doing, is doing it my way, and it’s my way of risk taking. And I like that.  

Do you want to stay based in London? What's the fashion industry here like for a recent graduate such as yourself?

I love London, and the city has played a major part in my development, as it inspires you on so many different levels. It’s very intense and fast. I love that.

Ideally I would like divide my time and career between Paris and London. Paris for the craft of couture and London for the cutting edge designs.

Where do you think you fit in in the fashion landscape?

In recent years, I’ve seen extremely talented and a successful generation of designers emerging from London; like Gareth Pugh, David Koma, Marios Schwab and Christopher Kane. Ideally I would like fit into that mould.

Do you feel any pressure to constantly make something unique, to stand out from your peers in the industry here?

There is constant pressure, especially in the current environment, but I think if you are staying true to yourself and have family and friends on your side, it becomes much easier, as you do what makes you happy and do not succumb to the external pressures.

Who do you design for? Do you have a Sveta girl in mind when you work? What is she like?

Visually she is different for each collection. Each time I imagine how she would look, I draft and play with her appearance . But what stays the same, is that she is never afraid to express her feelings and emotions. She is quite confident yet fragile, feminine yet androgynous. A naïve girl and powerful woman combined.

Who is your idol?

There are many people who I would love to mention, and they have had a huge impact on my development, but as we talk about one major influence it has to be Riccardo Tisci. I adore his work. Beauty, art, darkness and romanticism; all are very close to my nature.

Thinking of his work inspires and motivates me to take it to the next level.

By Ana Kinsella