What an eventful fashion week we had in London this season. We’ve seen some of the small players suddenly turning into wow factors, able to gather an international crowd, all sitting impatiently for their shows to start. We’ve seen people protesting, while someone else chose to make a last minute outfit change and cut all the furry accessories they were planning to wear.
Overall, the usual feeling of progression was preserved, the same one which usually hits London when LFW starts. The same progression that pushes many of the brands showcasing in the British capital to claim their position within the industry.
We look back at some of the designers who wowed us, made us think and inspired us with their beautiful, and beautifully executed concepts.
Speaking of progression, Fashion East is always a great example of that powerful yet silent wave of creativity that constantly crashes onto London and its fashion scene. Gathering some of the best new talent, Fashion East provides a platform to a brand new generation of designers, and the chance to differentiate themselves from their predecessors. Those who would struggle to express themselves, their voice and their style up until few years ago, are now celebrated in a shared catwalk that speaks of freedom, uniqueness and innovation. Take for example Supriya Lee’s collection, inspired by her Indian and British background, but also the dialogues between the female body and its relationships.
Or Mimi Wade, debuting this year with her first catwalk show, after three years showcasing with Fashion East. A lover of prints – she graduated with a BA Fashion Print from Central Saint Martins, after all – Wade’s collection was heavily influenced by old Hollywood films and their posters, but most of all the powerful women portrayed on them.
Images via Starworks Group.
A Wonderful Surprise: Alexandra Moura
Sometimes, we need a ground breaking designer to remind us about one of the less ground-breaking features that makes fashion such a complex and beautiful affair: its romanticism.
The romantic nature of fashion can be intended and interpreted in many ways, but it’s always somehow present in a collection: through the emotional connection of the designer with their creations in a more subtle way, or explicitly quoted as a way of injecting an extra bit of soul in what otherwise are pieces of fabrics which have been constructed, sewed together and showcased on a runway. For her FW17 collection, Portuguese designer Alexandra Moura proved her capacity to portray romanticism through her fashion, drawing her inspiration from the Portuguese empire in the XVIII century and its presence in East Timor, reaching up to Indonesia. In the aim of creating a strong connection with nature and ancestral origins, Moura used traditional fabrics and prints in order to represent, through its history, the romantic heritage which distinguishes her country to this day. Deconstruction was obviously a part of the process, while modernisation could be defined as the ultimate achievement of the designer, who provided a breath of fresh, inspiring and innovative air to LFW.
Images via May Concept.
Denim as you’ve Never Seen it Before: Faustine Steinmetz.
Bringing back her signature fabric: denim – but also the sparkling embellishments created in collaboration with Swarovski, for the second time Faustian Steinmetz created beautiful exhibition of special pieces, with a unique concept. In fact, inspired by the true meaning of personalisation, this season Steinmetz reflected on how a certain piece can be modified and made personal, according to the way one wears it. Collection 009 represents a precious study on how denim has been worn in different countries over the past years, making Steinmetz not only the designer who created this beautiful collection, but the curator of her own exhibition, carrying an educational meaning which was able to transport her work far beyond the usual purpose of any regular fashion showcase.
Images via Purple Pr.
Carnival Made Fancy: Isa Arfen
Girly silhouettes might not be the most recurrent items on the catwalk this season, but this certainly didn’t prevent Serafina Sama’s overtly sweet cuts to impress. Inspired by the masks and faces, both real and metaphorical, that we put on in order to project a certain image of ourselves rather than simply being ourselves, Sama created a contrasting, carnivalesque collection. Each outfit portraying a different posture, manner or attitude, creating a glorious showcase of human natures, cliches and true identities. The collection was enriched by shoes created exclusively by Charlotte Olympia and jewellery by Sonia Boyajian.
Images via Starworks Group.