The first week is over. The ice is well and truly broken. And the tongues have been sent away wagging. NYFW has massaged fashion’s seasonal muscles, it has loosened those stubborn knots and left red tingling marks; the first offering of the month will not be forgotten, that’s for sure. The usual talents took to the stage, Victoria Beckham, Rodarte, Jason Wu, to name a few. And, of course, the offerings were beautiful, classic and celebratory of the brands’ signatures. Meanwhile, others decided to pack a bit of a punch, and left marks that were redder and slightly deeper than others. Below, we chart the heavy-handed ones…
“I BELIEVE IN THE POWER OF LOVE”
Riccardo Tisci’s NYFW debut for Givenchy fell on a delicate day, September 11th. The show was a beautiful construction, it was a blend of fashion, art, performance and ultimately hope. Tisci joined forces with Marina Abramović together they created a powerful display. The sky swirled in silvery blue and pink patterns, the set was formed entirely from recycled materials – nothing was wasted – and performers dripped water on guests from above or embraced before staring into the still air, all wearing uniforms. The raw emotion and symbolism was touching and heartfelt, without feeling inappropriate or forced. Givenchy DNA still shone through with a collection that focused on duality – fragility and power, black and white, lavishness and rawness. The show was an exquisite display of beauty, “forgiveness, inclusivity, new life, hope, and above all, love”.
HAVE A NICE TRIP?
Models falling over during a show usually sends gasping ripples through the audience, often an empathetic look is shared between attendees, and occasionally soft applause or retorts of laughter are offered as the tumbling model “copes well” with the situation i.e. embraces the fall and makes a joke out of it or just carries on. For SS16, Opening Ceremony celebrated this fashion week fear, collaborating with the New York City Ballet, creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim put on a dance performance. The collection, worn by professional models as well as dancers, was inspired by American architect Frank Lloyd-Wright and his relationship with his daughter, who was in fact a dancer. This, in conjunction with OC’s consistent endeavours to shake up fashion week convention, was the motivation for choreographed falls galore.
IS THIS ART?
Eckhaus Latta are known for their affiliation with artists, they often recruit the talents of various creative people to collaborate and contribute to their own work. This season is no different. For SS16, the fashion house dipped its toes into music and art pools, partnering up with producer and all-round talented guy Dev Hynes, artist Bjarne Melgaard, India Salvor Menuez, Alexandra Marzella, Juliana Huxtable, Claire Christerson and Micharl Bailet Gates. Not only this, but many of the pieces in the collection were created in collaboration with painter Annabeth Marks. Art and creativity was in abundance during Eckhaus Latta’s SS16 offering, it was impossible not to feel that fizzling twinge of inspiration surge through your body after watching the show.
A WHOLE NEW SEASON
Contrary to populated belief, this season is not actually SS16, instead it is titled “season 2”. Well, according to Kanye West, it is, and who can argue with Yeezy? The collection was, as always, set on a pedestal of expectation and anticipation. In the lead up to the show, ambiguity and hype reigned. And when the curtain finally went up, Yeezy’s SS16 show was remarkably similar to the former collection. The army was strong, clothing wrapped bodies and streetwear shapes aplenty. However, there was an underlying message of politics and race in Kayne’s seasonal performance. Clothes reflected the skin colour and ethnicity of the models who wore them, with ‘outcasts’ identified in accordance to their skin colour. If ambiguity existed prior to the show, it certainly extended to and settled deep in the choreographed show’s core. No matter how you perceive this show, or your opinion of the clothing, or whether you think Kayne is a validated designer, Yeezy Season 2 is a talking point, and will not be forgotten anytime soon.
Images courtesy of Style.com and Riccardo Tisci (@riccardotisci17)